It is open to OUWB’s students, faculty, and staff. The initiative centers on a list of people with connections to OUWB who have signed up to publicly show support for the community. OUWB’s Kaleidoscope Project aims to promote inclusivity among all realms of medical education - from the classroom to patient care. Then the simple LEDs will be replaced by WS2812B, an LED-Matrix or an oled screen.More than 100 signed up in less than a week for a new student-led project that celebrates and supports people from Oakland University William Beaumont School of Medicine’s LGBTQ+ community. But I will develop the idea further, and I have some ideas.įirst, the Kaleidoscope will be equipped with a microcontroller and a rechargeable battery. This one was my first attempt to test the concept. ![]() It was painted with acrylic paint and ornaments were glued on it and a 2000 carat diamond to raise the value a bit. Here are some photos of the finished LED-Kaleidoscope. ![]() Now just solder the LED’s and assemble the whole thing with 20mm M2.5 screws. The switch is simply connected in series. The plus pole of the battery is at the bottom.Then solder the wires to the two copper foils. The micro switch and the CR2032 battery are installed as shown in the photo. As this is my prototype, I am testing different combinations. In my photo you can see more bulbs, but they are not all wired. These LEDs are designed for 3 volts, so the CR2032 is perfect. However, a maximum of 3 can be connected in parallel. Now you can install the flashing, colour-changing or flickering LEDs. now they are less bright and more diffuse. Pay attention to the direction of rotation.Ī CR2032 can handle up to 3 LEDs. Now glue the part with the 20mm hole onto the part with the L-shaped copper strip. On the wooden part with the smaller copper surface, the copper strip must be slightly longer towards the top, as it is passed through the slot and then folded over. (I added some solder afterwards to improve the contact). A small square part was glued on first to create a small elevation so that the contact with the battery is better. Now you have to cut the copper foil so that it fits there. Markings were burned into the wooden parts. So it works like sunglasses :).Īttach the whole thing to part no 2 with 10mm M2.5 screws. I decided to use black coloured transparent plexiglass, as the LEDs are quite bright. Now for the optical part, where you look inside. Then put some tape or rubber rings around the finished part and let the glue dry. Then the ones without cut-outs, each in between the others. Here I first glue the long parts with the cut-outs, as shown in the photo. 1 as shown in the photo, with part C with the brackets all the way out. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of parts C and D, so I only have the 2D drawing. 1, which is the holder for the LEDs, black. This is then glued to the other end of the mirror. The 3 mirror parts are pushed through part 3+4 and form the typical triangle. Glue part no. I have added numbers and letters to the photos, hopefully you understand what I am talking about :). The Inside Assemblyįirst, glue the mirror strips to the 3 centre pieces, using two-sided glue. ![]() The main housing is made of 4mm plywood from the DIY store and the A4 plastic mirror is from a craft shop. The DXF-file can be downloaded from here: Cutting the PartsĪs already mentioned, I use a laser cutter to create the parts. This file is then processed in Inkskape so that my laser cutter understands it. Reality will show whether it really works.įor the 3D design I still use the good old Google Sketchup 8. ![]() This helps me to make sure that everything fits together right from the start.
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